Paris! Fashion Week Takeaways A/W 2018
Week five of the Fashion Week marathon is wrapped up and the City of Lights is saying au revoir to the fashion insiders. As the fashion pack leaves Paris after the final round of the autumn/winter 2018, here are my highlights.
Dior. Maria Grazia Chiuri made a big feminist/activist statement recalling the Paris student protests of 1968. It was around that time that Marc Bohan launched Miss Dior, the first ready-to wear line that made the brand more accessible. Chiuri is definitely reflecting on the current times and the big feminist uproar, as it’s been the case those past few seasons. A strong, structured collection.
Saint Laurent. Vaccarello continues the rock, edgy mood the brand established since Hedi Slimane revamped it a few seasons back. Consistent in his looks, the sexy, cool silhouettes were reinforced with 80’s shoulders and skinny-jeaned rock star kids. New chunky platform boots and a glam suede stiletto caught the eye.
Isabel Marant with her eponym casual cool, like no one else can do, is looking towards the American West. The collection made me think of something model/jewelry designer Erin Wasson said as a joke, that I read in an interview for “Into the Gloss” in 2012: “I’m not going to spend $1,200 on a Western shirt and go back to Texas and get it for five bucks. I meannn. [Laughs]”. But you got to give it to Isabel Marant that if anyone knows how to make a shirt suddenly be both cool and wearable that’s her and I’m a fan.
Balmain army at full swing. Olivier Rousteing unleashed his sci-fi, PVC adorned siren warriors. He explained that he would like to push the brand from legacy to something new. “We are the new generation” was the leitmotif.
Alexander McQueen with Sarah Burton’s love for the natural world, think ‘butterflies and bugs, and paradise found not lost’ as she puts it. Romanticism but power. Women in impeccable tuxedos bust also sumptuous gowns to rhyme with the social climate today. McQueen’s heritage is present and the collection seems like the natural development for the brand.
Chanel never fails to amaze with the stunning elaborate sets at the Grand Palais. This season a gorgeous autumn forest to set a beautiful melancholic mood. Lagerfeld went for an Edwardian silhouette, lots of tweed as expected, shearling, a bit of sparkle and the extremely flattering hair updos which I’m running to recreate, statement ear pieces included.
Look out for a post on how to actually translate this into wearable and more affordable options! I love mixing street fashion items to achieve the runway look in a more organic and approachable manner.